Seattle Foodies

My excitement to try Ethan Stowell’s new Anchovies & Olives trumped the freezing weather last night. Crying “uncle,” we hailed a taxi after shivering for two blocks, and arrived at 15th and Pine wondering if we were at the wrong place. We were about to charge up the hill in search of it, when I noticed the very understated sign right in front of us: simple letters stenciled on the door (SE corner, the door opens onto 15th). The interior is not large (about 40 seats), and the kitchen is right there. Cool and sexy, with 70’s hits cranking just a bit louder than we’d have liked but, hey, it’s a happening Capitol Hill joint. And the food was completely on par with Union (my current fave restaurant), which might have had something to do with Ethan’s presence in the kitchen, watching over his crew. The menu structure was similar: smaller portions to allow a full tour without blowing a gasket, although it seemed a tad more expensive. And it’s all about fish here.

We started with Montellvini prosecco and the marinated castelvetrano olives, which were served in a cute little jar with a wire-bale sealed lid (like you’d find in your pantry). They were green, round, luscious, nutty, brightened with citrus and just a touch of chili flake. If you’re in the neighborhood and only have fifteen minutes, stop in to grab them at the bar. And don’t forget the bubbles: it paired wonderfully.

The top left of the menu is dedicated to raw fish: four kinds of crudo (Italian for sashimi) and four kinds of oysters. We ordered the hamachi (blood orange, shaved marinated fennel, and fennel pollen) and half dozen kumomotos (small dice roasted and pickled yellow beets). The first was awesome, and the oysters were impeccable. But we found the earthiness of the beets a bit overwhelming for the delicate kumomotos (which are a tiny variety as well). Perhaps two or three dice, rather than the dozen would have helped. (Warning: I’m usually hostile to anything getting between me and that fresh oyster flavor.)

Next up, we had squid (controne beans, goat horn peppers, escarole) and anchovies with prosciuitto (you can’t not try the anchovy and olive dishes, right?). The squid was incredible, served in a simple reduction of the bean broth (I think with a swirl of finishing butter) that was immensely satisfying, especially with the escarole flavor. And the prosciutto was nicely shaved, traced with olive oil, and laced with juicy anchovy filets (obviously restored from the salted and canned variety—if you haven’t done this at home, consider trying it: it’s a bit of work, but you end up with gorgeous anchovies that are meaty and tender, and not overly salty and fishy like the little cans or jars containing a few filets in oil of marginal quality. I can post more about that if anyone’s interested. End of digression.) It was humongous, definitely justifying the $14 ticket. Half the amount would have been terrific.

We skipped the pasta course (what were we thinking?) and had branzino (hen of the woods mushrooms, pistachio, cauliflower, currants) and monkfish (speck, ham hock, sauerkraut), both of which were amazing, and definitely up to Ethan standards. The branzino had a wonderfully crispy skin, and the monkfish was lobster-juicy as only monkfish can be.

Dessert options were more limited (no menu, just peach sorbet or caramel gelatto) and just two wine options. We had the caramel gelatto, which was a very generous dish and served with a small biscotti, which was light and shattered wonderfully on your teeth. And while the gelatto was amazingly rich and creamy, the caramel flavor was too subtle. Another disclosure: my prejudice is to skip dessert unless it’s going to be divine, and simple sorbet or gelatto rarely reaches that for me.

I am spoiled by Union’s PhD-level foodie dining room staff, so it might be unfair to say we were underwhelmed by our server. The dishes from the first two courses were each served at least five minutes apart, which might have been the right approach to making it four courses, but that wasn’t the plan. Every question sent her off to ask the kitchen, or consult a wine bottle. Nor could she recommend a wine to pair with my first course. But she was attentive, friendly, and enthusiastic, and perhaps my expectations were too high for a place that’s been open for just a few weeks.

Speaking of wine, the list was up to Ethan’s standards. An Italian focus, with interesting and affordable choices. And a terrific by-the-glass list. The only thing missing was guidance. Okay, that and the lack of half pours, so I couldn’t pair a different wine with each course (which is something I love to do at Union) and stay reasonably sober.

But should any of that should hold you back? Absolutely not. And another great feature: Anchovies & Olives is open until midnight everyday, and it’s on our regular evening walking route. So we’ll be back soon!